At the end of the winter season I was sitting in a bar with a few friends discussing The Haute Route, a classic route across The Alps between Zermat, Verbier and Chamonix. “Why don’t we walk part of it” someone suggested. From Verbier we look out at the mountains towards Chamonix wondering what each peak is called. “If we find a guide to take us why don’t we explore the route and learn more about the peaks in between” was the suggestion.
This was the start of a 3 day adventure that we had never dreamed about. After a summer of discussions between ourselves and the two guides we hired Monsieur Gratien Hiroz and Monsieur Herve Greche. Both are local men who grew up in the mountains around Verbier. So we gathered a few friends together and booked a date.
On September 3rd 2018 we set off from Verbier. Seven of us led by the two guides climbed into a mini bus and drove to the starting point above Orsierre.The journey was around 20 minutes which gave us enough time to discuss the amount of kit each of us had packed. Had we forgotten anything or got too much? We would soon find out.
So we set off expecting to be walking uphill for 5 to 6 hours through the trees and bushes that filled the mountainside. One foot in front of the other, taking in the beautiful scenery even if the morning had started out a little misty. After 30 minutes of pretty easy terrain we were faced with the first challenge of the journey. Rocks and more rocks. To help us up there were chains already secured to the rocks and also steel footholds. Even so it was pretty steep and one slip could have been messy. We carried on eventually building confidence and moving a little faster.
The Salienaz Glacier eventually came into sight showing signs of years of erosion. “How much further until we get to the hut?” was the next question. “Just another 2 hours” the guide replied. “JUST!” we all muttered under our breath. A small break was called and everyone dived into their backpacks to produce food that had been packed either last night or in a rush during the morning. Everyone looking enviously at what the other had brought hoping it might get shared around.
Phew … after around 5 hours of hiking we eventually got to the Cabane Saleinaz at an altitude of 2691metres, exhausted but totally exhilarated with the days achievements. Large bowls of warm tea greeted us provided by the couple who run the cabane. They sat preparing the evening meal which everyone was really looking forward to. “Yoga anyone?” I suggested. “OK then” was the reply of five of us so we took off our shoes and socks liberating our hard working feet from the days walk.
The evening meal was so very good after the days hard walk. Three courses including meat, vegetables and mashed potatoes along with maybe more wine than we should have drunk. Compliments to the hosts were in order. Then it was off to our room which a decent size and consisted of two rows of bunk style beds. Sharing a room with six other people was going to be interesting and who would snore the loudest ? We settled in for the night but then after around an hour the trips to the toilets started. Each person visiting at least once during the night trying to be as quiet as they could as they put on their head torches to help guide them. The toilets had to be accessed by going outside at one point, a little cold but the stars were amazing.
Sunrises in the mountains are absolutely spectacular and the next morning didn’t fail to impress. After a typical alpine breakfast of bread, cheese and muesli we packed all our gear back into our backpacks and set off for the next day of adventure. “How did you sleep?” was the popular question of the morning. “Not too well” was the reply. Nevertheless we proceeded to put on our hiking boots and set off on the next day of exploring.
A little cooler this morning, we left the hut still perched on the rock and headed off . The object of the day was to reach the Cabane de Trient at 3170 metres above sea level, a 5 hour walk aparentley. The first part was all down hill heading towards the Salienaz glacier which we needed to find our way across. Picking our way through precarious looking rocks I realised walking downhill was much more of a challenge than climbing up. Some rocks would move when you put your foot down on them so you kept a close eye on the person in front to check their steps and which rocks remained stable.
We could see the glacier that we were about to cross. “Crampons or no crampons?” we asked the guides. Not this time as there we very few crevasses, just lots of stones and rocks in the ancient ice flow. No need either to be roped together this time. We marched across the ice, sometimes stopping to admire the crystals that had formed in the rock over thousands or millions of years. A geologists dream.
Having crossed the glacier Salienaz we started to climb out of the other side. More rocks to negotiate and with each step our strength and balancing skills were tested. The smaller legged ones in the group found it a little more challenging than the tall ones. However we were all having a great time, sharing stories and the odd joke but primarily trying to stay upright.
Rocks turned into snow and most of us were relieved as we were walking on more familiar territory as encountered during our skiing experience in Verbier throughout the winter. By lunch time the sun was shining and getting quite warm. Maybe the next night stop had a shower to wash off the copious amounts of sweat some were producing as the previous nights accommodation didn’t have one. Lunch time came and we chose a rock each as a seat or table and unpacked whatever we had left of our supplies for the day. Food including sausage, dried fruit, nuts and sandwiches were devoured thoroughly to replenish the energy levels that had been eroded during the mornings efforts.
After lunch the ropes eventually came out and we were linked together in two groups with a guide leading each one. According to the guides it would be getting a little more dangerous so it was a good call from these experienced men of the mountains to rope up. We left our picturesque lunch stop and carried on up over more rocks taking care to adhere to the instructions of the guides that were needed when roped together. Keeping the rope between each of us just off the floor and not getting too close to the person in front was the main objective.
“We’re not going up that” I thought as we arrived at the foot of a narrow ledge of snow which would eventually lead us on to the Trient glacier. This was the first test for me psychologically. I don’t mind skiing down steep and icy slopes but this was completely different. We were told to put on our crampons and unleash our ice axes from their secure point on our backpacks. Now it was getting serious. All I could see was the small lake to the left of the ridge and a steep slope to the right. If we fell it could be serious. As we slowly and carefully made our way on to the ridge i could see the right drop. Phew, not as bad as I though but the adrenaline was pumping as we slowly and carefully made our way up the ridge. You can’t imagine the sense of relief as we got to the top.
We had made it to the glacier. Still roped up we made our way in the mist heading towards the Cabane de Trient which was going to be our refuge for the night. Once again our balancing skills were tested as we picked our way through the final set of rocks up to the cabane. There was relief from everyone, just get their boots off and slip into something more comfortable generously provided by the hosts was a pleasure.
It was food time and the meal provided at the hut exceeded expectations. Three delicious courses were served up by the two guides and a very nice desert which was more than appreciated by some of us. The wine flowed and there was a lot of discussion about our achievements of the day and what was expected the next day. Sleeping arrangements were just as cosey as the night before with all of us sharing a room but this time sharing it with two strangers. We did’nt care as long as we got some sleep.
The next day a colder morning welcomed us as we prepared to cross the glacier and make our way to Le Tour our final destination. We made our way from the Cabane and down to the ice where we roped up again and put on our crampons. Setting across the glacier keeping an eye out for the numerous crevasses was an experience never to forget. Keeping the rope between us without much slack meant that if someone fell into one of the crevasses the others wouldn’t be yanked in with them.
As the sun rose the temperature rose too and some of us shed a few layers of clothing. It was like walking across a moonscape, so peaceful and quiet. Reaching the other side the guides had to make a big decision. To get down to the Le Tour glacier there was a very steep section of rock followed by solid ice. These conditions couldn’t have been predicted and the guides took the decision not to take us down the route as it would have taken too long to belay everyone down there. There was an air of disappointment but we trusted our guides.
The morning route was reversed and we set off across the ice in glorious sunshine with temperatures to match.The landscape was amazing with the snow glistening like diamonds in the clear air. At least the route was flat now although the altitude made breathing a little more challenging. The sun at this altitude was blistering hot and great care needed to be taken to prevent sunburn. The walk to the next glacier and the route down took about an hour giving us time to reflect on the journey so far.
Now we could see why it was necessary to be roped together as the crevasses seemed to get larger. Nevertheless it was stunning. We could see a couple of climbers attempting to reach a summit in the distance. Compared to what they were doing our walk was a walk in the park.
We started to descend following another glacier which would take us to a path and ultimately to Champex Lac. The glacier never ceased to amaze with the contrasts of texture. Here we encountered small streams as the ice began to melt in the midday sun which also produced cracks that we either stepped or jumped carefully over.
Eventually as we reached the end of the glacier on to dry land where the mountain views changed to green. The crampons and ropes came of and we felt free and liberated once again.The only way was down now which in some ways was more difficult than the climbing as I could now feel slight pain in my knees. However the beautiful scenery and the sun beating down took away the pain and we carried on. By know our balancing skills were much better and confidence was high which lead to almost wanting to run down the rocks.
We meandered along the mountain side following the path that must have seen thousands of walking over hundreds of years. Some of the drops to the side were quite steep and had chains fastened to the rock for us to hold on to just for a bit of safety and peace of mind. The final part of the journey would have to be taken by chair lift to get us down to Champex Lac for a well deserved beer or two.
We had made it after 3 days of hiking, climbing and in some parts torture but an adventure never to be forgotten. Champex Lac is a beautiful little village well worth a visit in the summer and during the winter for some skiing. After a sit down and a few beers we jumped on a mini bus and made our way back to Verbier where we celebrated firstly with a hot shower and then a fabulous dinner.
Credits and a big thank you to Marco Shapiro for many of the photographs!